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  1. Begin by upgrading the work bench to level 2. Skip building the tier 1 items and start out with a tier 2 bed, toilet, and shower instead. You start out with enough resources at the beginning of the game to create one of each, and this way resources aren't lost on the lesser tier 1 items.
  2. Prioritize building a second water butt as soon as possible. This will make it easier to carry out expeditions and still have enough water in the shelter. Only build level 1 water butts when possible, they may have a lower space-to-storage ratio, but it costs more materials to build level 2 water butts than it does to craft level ones, and the material-to-storage ratio per level one water butt outweighs all other water butts, at the cost of space. The same applies with food storage and storage crates, only build level one food storages and level 2 crates, unless you are short on space.
  3. Make the most out of each expedition by visiting as many locations as possible. Prioritize making a satchel for the extra inventory space. Remember that each expedition costs a gas mask per character, so always focus on gathering materials for crafting them.
  4. While it rains try to satisfy all of your characters's thirst, toilet and dirtiness needs since these stats all require water.
  5. Sending out new recruits on expeditions without gas masks or using any resources on them is an effective way to explore the map and conserve food and water.
  6. Lights speed up repairing and crafting times for any items in the same room. However lights also use power and can be turned off to conserve fuel.
  7. Eating can lead to food poisoning if your character's hygiene isn't maintained.
  8. When out of gas masks, anti-radiation tablets are a necessary resource. Pick one brave soul to venture out. Make sure all of this person's needs are met. Search as many locations as water allows, avoiding human contact when possible (trading is fine, you do not want to take damage). Upon returning home, unload your loot, pop your anti-radiation tablets, and immediately send this person back out. The medication will protect your for as long as the green + symbol is displayed near their health stat.
  9. Toys and books cannot be stored in anything but toy boxes and bookshelves. Until you've crafted either storage container there is no reason to waste an inventory slot for these items while on expedition. Books and toys do have high trading values, so might be interesting to keep if you often broadcast for traders.
  10. You can save anti-rad tablets and gas masks by recruiting survivors and sending them out scavenging, it does not matter if they get radiation sickness or start starving, as they only take damage when inside the bunker. Send them out as soon as they return to maximize their lifespan, and make sure to avoid fights, as their health will almost constantly be mid to low. If they die in your shelter they can be harvested for food. If you maximize their lifespan, by the time a second one dies, your trauma level should be 0, and if it is too high for your liking, you can wait for your scav team to get back (4 random survivors is a good amount of people, if you have enough water for constant trips) and let them harvest him/her. As of now, there are no repercussions to doing this, but this may change in the future.
  11. The more people on an expedition, the more required water.
  12. It's wise to pick 'Small Eater' trait for as many family members as possible as food isn't easy to come by and cannot be grown up until later on in the game.
  13. Get an incinerator. Gathering enough coal on expeditions can make it possible to not use the generator at all. It's also a good way to save space by burning the items you don't immediately need until later in the game, when you can have enough storage.
  14. Let idle characters in the bunker broadcast for traders (and upgrade the radio). Aside from scavenging for loot, traders are an additional source of valuable resources and often allow you to exchange garbage and surpluses for food, fuel or other resources you are lacking.

Shelter synonyms. Top synonyms for shelter (other words for shelter) are refuge, sanctuary and home - Page 6. Providing easy-to-use POS solutions for retailers & restaurateurs since 2005. Skyrocket your business with Lightspeed's point of sale today.

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Safe, discrete, and inexpensive

You can build a professional engineer certified underground bomb shelter for an in the ground cost that is thousands of dollars less than a prefabricated steel bunker.

Your shelter is your business. No need to bring in a crew with a crane to hoist it up for your neighbors to see.

We supply all of the critical components like the engineered trusses, the blast hatch, and the NBC air filtration system. The heavy (and expensive to ship) blocks and concrete are purchased locally. Or, instead of laying blocks, you can form up and pour solid concrete walls and then cap them with our engineered steel truss ceiling kit.

This is a 14 x 50 foot shelter kit
700 square feet inside

All the space you need in your bomb shelter

These kits go up to 14 feet wide – much wider that the narrow prefabricated shelters that are constrained by maximum shipping widths.

You can easily extend the length of our standard shelters by ordering additional trusses. Contact our sales department to get a quotation for your shelter kit!

Steel beam reinforcement

What sets this system apart is the integrated design and manufacture process that decreases the cost and build time while increasing the strength and features. The engineered wide flange steel beam trusses allow you to pour the concrete ceiling without erecting temporary cribbing. The steel trusses stay embedded in the concrete, giving additional strength over and above what rebar normally provides.

Certified blast load rating

The trusses and the rebar are what give this bomb shelter its certified blast load rating of 2,980 pounds per square foot (20.7 PSI). This is a professional engineers certificate of the true blast load rating. The weight of the ceiling, the backfill, and even a vehicle parked on top were added in before the blast load was calculated.

We have yet to find any other bomb shelter that comes with a blast load certification. When you go into your shelter you are in a man-made underground void with thousands of pounds of earth right over your head and the possibility of a much greater dynamic load during a nearby detonation. Somebody should have done a little math to ensure your safety – we have.

Comprehensive installation manual

Every step to build this bomb shelter is outlined the manual so you can pre-plan to have your materials, equipment, and skilled labor onsite when you need them.

Having a detailed manual also greatly simplifies the quotation process if you are hiring a contractor to build your shelter.

Why steel reinforced concrete is best

There’s a reason why all known government bomb shelters are made from steel reinforced concrete. Steel and concrete work well together.

Steel is expensive, concrete is cheap – together they are affordable
Steel has high tensile strength, concrete has high compression strength
Steel can be cut with a torch, concrete can take the heat
Steel takes a shop full of tooling to form, concrete is easily formed in the field

We supply all of the critical steel elements for this underground bomb shelter kit – brackets, fasteners, trusses, rebar, ventilation pipes, and the electrical, water, and septic penetrations.

Equipped with the best air filtration system

Each shelter kit comes with a Safe Cell NBC air filtration system that includes:

  1. One 60 CFM Safe Cell with a full bank of filters
  2. One backup hand crank
  3. Two 7 bar blast valves
  4. One overpressure valve
  5. One automatic ventilation system

The Safe Cell is the only NBC air filtration system with a built in battery backup capability. There are thousands of them in use now, including many notable installations.

Shelter Build 1 – Series 400

A series of pictures showing an extended length bomb shelter being built. It’s 14 x 50 feet on the inside and has has many optional items: a blast door, three blast hatches, an external generator room, and an escape tunnel.

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Shelter Build 2 – Series 400

A series of pictures showing a 14 x 20 foot bomb shelter kit being built. This one has an optional blast door.

Shelter Build 3 – Series 100

A series of pictures showing an 8 foot, 8 inch by 20 foot bomb shelter kit being built. Another one with an optional blast door.

Putting it all together

This is the riser hatch on the riser trusses with the rebar in the background.

This is the riser truss pair. This pair of trusses are welded together and form a pallet for the rest of the trusses to be shipped on. Note the “tunnel” that the riser sits on is a form. The concrete is poured all around it and the riser hatch is mounted on top.

In the background is a truss showing the holes we punch for the rebar as well as the two small holes for the form board bracket in the end of the truss.

This is the pre-cut and formed rebar. It is cut, formed, counted, labeled, bundled, and tagged.

This is the single leaf blast door that was shipped with this kit.

This is the riser hatch. It is an older style without the internal cam latch. All hatches we build now have a cam latch that draws the blast lid down onto the frame, compressing the seal.

The emergency escape jack has not been installed. The two ears on the right side of the blast lid accept the top end of this three ton jack.

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Note the deadbolt lock mounted on the blast lid right above the pull handle, the EPDM seal around the top lip and the wide angle viewer ports on each side, just below the top lip.

For more information on our hatches, see the flat blast hatch and the riser blast hatch pages.

These are the ventilation pipes. One air intake, one air outflow, and one septic drain ventilation pipe. All ventilation pipes need a blast valve to protect the occupants from a nearby detonation.

Also shown are the angle brackets, the form board brackets, the deadbolt cap for the riser blast hatch, the electrical, water, and septic penetrations as well as the bottom struts for the ladder.

These are the ventilation pipes strapped to the blast door for shipping.

These are the trusses and ladder banded on top of the riser truss pair for shipping. The rebar is banded to the top of this and everything is loaded onto a flatbed truck. The bands can be sequentially cut and the items off loaded individually.

Here is the riser blast hatch and the trusses on the flatbed truck.

Prices, availability, and ordering

There are four standard sizes of shelter kits:

Series 400 (14′ wide x 20′ long) – $24,500, plus shipping
Series 300 (12′ wide x 20′ long) – $22,500, plus shipping
Series 200 (10′ wide x 20′ long) – $20,500, plus shipping
Series 100 (8′-8″ wide x 20′ long) – $18,500, plus shipping

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Each standard kit includes:

Seven steel trusses with all the brackets and fasteners
All the cut and formed rebar for the floors, walls, and ceiling
A riser blast hatch
A 60 CFM blast protected NBC air filtration system
Two 72″ steel ventilation pipes
Ceiling penetrations for electrical, water, and septic

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The 14 x 50 foot shelter kit. Note that this length is not in the manual. We highly recommend a 24″ x 24″ perimeter footer be incorporated into the floor slab to strengthen the foundation over this longer length:

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Series 400 (14′ wide x 50′ long) – $36,500, plus shipping
All standard items listed above are included, except:
There will be 19 trusses instead of 7
Rebar is not included with this price

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Special order item: we usually need four weeks of build time. You arrange a 50% deposit at time order, we build the part, you arrange payment for the balance due, and we ship it right out. See our policy page for the full set of terms.

To have a shelter kit like this show up at your house, please contact our sales department.