Unimat Electrical Manual Manual

  1. Electrical Manuals for electrical equipment. Hits: 1564 Attention - The website has grown to the point that I need to transition to a new server.
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Jan 29, 2020 UNIMAT SL MANUAL. UNIMAT MINIATURE MACHINING TECHNIQUES. UNIMAT DB200 MINIATURE MACHING TECHNIQUES. UNIMAT UNIVERSAL MACHINE MANUAL 3. 1968 UNIMAT 24 PAGE CATALOG. 1981 UNIMAT 3 12 PAGE CATALOG. I stand behind the quality of these manuals and will be available should you need any help. Aug 30, 2020 unimat,lathe,belts, manual, book emco, edelstaal,parts, db, sl, unimat 3, mini lathe, db200, sl1000.

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Unimat Manual Pdf

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The very common Die-cast Unimat SL1000

Unimat Mk. 1B
: this version retained all the main characteristics (and deficiencies) of the Mk. 1A with the important exception that the bored holes for the way bars were replaced with V-grooves into which the bars sat to be held in place by screws passing vertically though them - as on all subsequent models - so allowing much quicker construction and disassembly. Some examples of this version have also been found with saddle and cross-slide locking screws (the latter with a small brass plug pushed against the right-hand cross-slide bar) but such fittings appear not to have been standard until at least the Mk. 2A. It may well be that some owners, frustrated by the absence of a carriage lock on their early machines, could have fitted their own - so it is impossible to be categorical on this point. The tiny instruction book issued with this model was marked as being the 2nd edition and was originally typed on an A4 sheet, reduced to A5 and bound in grey card.
Unimat Mk. 2 and 2A: the iron base casting, now with a better finish, was lengthened to approximately 141/2 inches giving an increase in the between-centres capacity to 65/8 inches. The tailstock cantilever was reduced and the casting became a two-piece affair with the upper and lower sections clamped to the bed rails by a single Allen bolt. Although the 2 and 2A had a carriage lock (at the back) the cross slide generally did not - that improvement appearing as standard on the 2B. The feed-screws on these models were changed to a left-hand thread, so allowing a 'normal' feel - where turning the screw to the right resulted in a deeper cut; a far better arrangement than the 'cack-handed' originals that did the opposite. The handwheels, now larger at 35-mm in diameter, were made slightly thinner and given a knurled rim and a locking nut on the end of their feedscrew, instead of through the wheel's boss. Again, with over-lapping production, it possible that these handwheels may have been seen first on the last examples of the previous type.
Arranged by the simple and effective means of splitting the right-hand half of the casting from front to back, the cross-slide clamp used an M6 socket -headed screw set (positioned at the front between feed screw and the right-hand 8 mm-diameter cross slide bar) to squeeze the parts together. However, this was not the first type of lock and some earlier versions have been found with a cruder system where, on the right-hand side front of the casting, an 11-mm wide tapped boss was incorporated that took an M6 x 8 mm grub screw bearing directly onto the way bar. So as not to mark the bar, a small brass button was used on the end of the screw. Although the system worked well enough, it did not have the clamping power of the later type and would probably not have stood up well to the demands of heavier milling cuts. As a further confusion, some early machines of the Mk 2 and 2A type have been found with two locking screws on the cross slide, one at the front and another other at the back.
Improvements were also made to the headstock, with the spindle being given a register flange and the 2-step pulley made reversible on its mounting - so providing an increase in the number of speeds. The 3-jaw chuck and the drill chuck delivered with this lathe were identical to the ones supplied earlier, with the ring-scroll portion of the 3-jaw (the part gripped to turn the scroll) being diamond knurled and drilled with 6 Tommy-bar holes. The entire body of the drill chuck was also given a distinctive (and effective) diamond-knurl finish. It is likely that the Mk. 2 and 2A were delivered in several finishes: the original crackle-black, a silver-grey, plain-grey and late ones possibly in a silver-blue 'hammer' effect.
For the American market the 2A Instruction book was published by 'American Edelstaal' in New York and was a considerable improvement over the original. Although some of the original illustrations were used, the robin's-egg blue paper and a different font, properly typeset and justified, made all the difference.
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